PROTIP

[mcity]

If you don't have time to go to the full (that is, AJAX) version of GMail, simply bookmark https://mail.google.com/mail/h/ to use the HTML-only version. There's also a link at the bottom of the standard version that links to the older version, still using AJAX, which means that all the keyboard shortcuts and such are intact, but it loads much faster. I'm not sure if GChat still works, though.